3D Printing Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer Blender Model Making Modelling Slicing

3D Printed Knife Handle – Damascus Tanto

I have a blade blank that I bought from Heinnie which I haven’t yet made a handle for. As I am getting more and more into 3D printing I thought – why not 3D print my own knife handle – so this is my attempt at created a knife handle from design through to printing.

01:14 – Step 1 – Photos and Measurements

I take photos of the knife so I can accurately determine the size of the kind handle and also use one of the photos as a template to work with in the preparation of my 3D knife handle object.

02:42 – Step 2 – Cutting Out The Template

I import a photo into Photoshop, trace around the image, cut it out and save it as a PNG with transparent background.

04:20 – Step 3 – Tracing an Image as an Object

Using Fusion 360 to import the PNG, resize and trace the image, create an object and extrude it to the appropriate depth.

Fusion 360 is free for personal use and you can download it from here:

10:38 – Step 4 – Adjusting the Models Surface

Using Blender to import the model and adjust the surface to create a unique textured effect by adjusting the splines and vertices.

16:04 – Step 4.1 – Personalising the Knife Handle

I convert a text layer to a mesh so I can include my initials in a discreet position on the knife handles surface.

This is quite an interesting part of the process as I need to create a Boolean Modifier so that I can exclude or cut one shape from another.

This gives me the ‘cut out’ of my initials in the handle itself.

18:55 – Step 4.2 – Exporting the STL File

I can now export the finished model as an STL file in preparation for printing.

It is important when using Boolean modifiers to export only the main selection so as not to include the object you’re excluding or cutting out of the main shape.

19:50 – Step 5 – Slicing the STL file for printing

Using Repetier, I import the knife handle model and export it as a .GCODE file ready for printing

21:18 – Step 6 – Sending the GCode file to the printer

Using OctoPi to send the GCode file to the printer for printing.

22:40 – Step 7 – Printing the Knife Handle

Watching the print via OctoPi timelapse.

22:54 – Results of the First Attempt

An okay first attempt but its too thin at only 3mm and the detail of the print isn’t quite good enough.

24:13 – Step 8 – Making the Knife Handle Thicker

Using Blender to get a thicker handle by increasing the height of the model.

28:23 – Step 9 – Preparing for Printing by Slicing in Cura

Comparing the thickness of the version 1 handle to the new handle prior to slicing and exporting as a GCode file.

30:19 – Step 10 – Sending the thicker handle to print

Once again, using OctoPi to send the newer and thicker version of the handle to print.

30:50 – Step 11 – Printing the thicker knife handle

We observe, using OctoPi timelapse, the Artillery Sidewinder X1 printing the knife handle.

31:13 – Step 12 – Printing the other side of the handle

As the previous print was successful. I used Blender to mirror the model to create the handle for the other side and repeated steps to export, slice and send the model to the printer to print the other side.

31:35 – The finished knife handle

Finally, we get to see the end result – the knife handle attached to the blade itself – and what a result it is.

All in all from start to finish this project is well over 30 hours work and its amazing how much time projects like this can take.

Heinnie Blade Blank Damascus

Knife Stand (Large 9cm)

They also do a small version which is 6.5cm.

I really enjoyed this project as not only did I finally achieve a knife handle for my gorgeous Damascus Tanto, I also learned a lot from this entire process.

Thank you for watching.

3D Printing Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer Blender General

PLA Temperature Test – Second Attempt = Success (kind of)

In this second test using the ‘Temperature Tower’ I have adjusted my model to improve the simplicity of the test and removed the overhang that was making the model unstable.

There are three separate towers, one square, one round and one star-shaped with a number of cutouts to check the print accuracy at different temperatures.

  1. I exported from Blender as an STL
  2. I imported into Cura, retained the existing settings and exported the GCode file
  3. I opened the GCode file in Repetier to identify layer heights
  4. I manually modified the GCode file to specific temperatures within the file itself so the 3D printer would adjust the temperatures automatically
  5. I saved the modified GCode file to the memory stick and transferred to the Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D printer for printing

The end result is a more structurally sound tower that did successfully remain standing during printing – however – the stringing effect is consistent across all temperatures and is an issue throughout the height of the tower.

  1. What did I learn from this test?
  2. Making the model simpler ensured it could be printed without falling over

The stringing issue must be a consistent problem within the settings of the print profile in Cura – perhaps related to retraction settings?

I will research further and re-test as a third attempt.

Project files available from here:

Thank you for watching.

Rob @ 3DModUK

3D Printing Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer Blender General

PLA Temperature Test – First Attempt = Failure

In my previous ‘Overhang Test’ on the Artillery Sidewinder X1 I noticed the print was ‘stringy’. I tried adding retraction and this didn’t work so I wondered if this was something to do with print temperature and the best way of checking this is to come up with another test.

In this video I create a ‘Temperature Tower’ in blender so I can test different print temperatures at different levels of the tower.

And, in order to test as many things in one go I come up with an elaborate – perhaps too elaborate – triple tower with aspects such as cut-outs and overhangs.

This however was to be my downfall, or should I say the models downfall!

  1. Create the model in blender
  2. Export the model as an STL file
  3. Load the STL file into Cura and export the GCode file
  4. Load the GCode file into Repetier and identify the layers for the appropriate temperature changes
  5. Modify the GCode file and set specific temperatures at the specific levels of the tower print
  6. Copy the GCode file to the printer
  7. Print using ICE Filaments ‘Romantic Red’ filament

What did I learn from this project?

  1. The model was too complicated and I should have just kept it simple.
  2. Supports aren’t only required to ensure that anything overhanging can print, they can be also present to stabilise the model whilst printing while the plastic is still hot and malleable until cooled.

These tests not only help me learn about the Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D printer, but also the software, print settings and the approach to getting the best out of the 3D prints.

Taking this into account, I am sure my next test will be more successful.

If you would like to see original blender model, STL or GCode files you can access them here:

Thank you for watching.

Rob @ 3DModUK

3D Printing Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer Blender

Printing a simple cone shape with the Artillery Sidewinder X1

In this video I attempt to print the simple cone model that I created in Blender in a previous video.

The aim is to start with very simple 3D printed models and as I learn how the 3D printer works slowly progress onto more sophisticated models.

Needless to say, this doesn’t go as I had planned!

Thank you for watching,

Rob @ 3DModUK

3D Printing Blender Modelling

Creating a simple cone shape with Blender and exporting for 3D printing

Although I can’t wait to start printing more complicated and sophisticated 3D models, it is my intention to start small with simple shapes and models so that I can get to better understand the Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D printer and how it works.

I am as new to Blender as I am to the 3D printer so in this video I start by creating a simple shape, in this case a cone. I then export the cone as an STL file. I have installed Repetier from the Artillery memory stick and load the STL file into that.

I then export using the Slic3r settings as a .gcode which which I can load onto the memory stick for the Sidewinder X1 3D printer to print.

Thank you for watching.

Rob @ 3DModUK